VOYAGE OF THE S/V KAROL ANNE

Cold Cold Cold

2012-02-13T12:21:00.000-08:00

This morning I got up to 40 degrees of cold strong north wind. Ok,Ok I know some of you are walking around in T-shirts at that temp but living in the middle of a river on a boat, 40 degree's is cold.

I got out from under my blankets,put on my layers of sweaters and sweat pants and had a hot cup of coffee. The boat does have an alcohol stove but it's put away and I don't have any "burning" alcohol on board anyway. We have been having beautiful mid 70's days for weeks my body is not adjusted to this weather.

To make matters worse I needed gas for the generator. I also had made plans to go to the Stuart farmer's market. The generator keeps the batteries up allowing me to have lights and power for water and starting the engine. The weather looked sunny and bright but the wind was howling.

My dingy always has a little water in it so I leave a pair of shoe's in the trunk of my car so that I have dry shoe's to walk around in when I am on shore. Therefore I go bare footed for the 1/4 mile wet footed trip to the marina dock. Well off I went. When I tied up to the dock my feet, my hands, and my face were numb. The walk to my car was brutal and pain full.

After a long long hot shower my feet started to feel normal. I then walked to the farmers market. It looked like Eskimos had taken over. Next week a better blog on the market.

Oh Cisco , Oh Poncho

2012-02-10T08:44:00.000-08:00

This week in Martin county where my boat is currently anchored they are having the Martin County Youth Fair. I have been driving by for the past week whatching various rides and food stands beginning to fill the fairgrounds.

Some of my fondest memories were attending the annual August event known as the Berrian County Youth Fair held in Berrian Springs Michigan. It marked the end of summer with school usually starting a couple of weeks after the fair ended. It was a big highlight of my summer. I loved all the different exhibits. There was a faucet that amazingly was suspended from a large tank of water that gushed water without falling. It was always there every year and I think I was a teenager before I figured out the trick. A pump pushed water up an inside tube of the faucet and water gushed out the outside of the tube making it look like the faucet was suspended in the air. I also liked the half painted cinder block that gushed water out the unpainted side but kept the water in the painted side. Simple things for simple times.

I also loved the livestock exhibits. Momma and baby pigs. Calves that would always nuzzle your extended hand. Giant draft horses and smaller ponies that also loved attention. The 4 H kids had their sleeping bags there and I always envied the fact that they spent the entire week sleeping in the stalls next to their animals. At 12 I wondered what it would be like sleeping in a stall next to a girl. I had heard by that time there were "loose" girls. I didn't know of any "loose girls" because most moms had drilled the" stay away from boys" mantra into their heads so effectively that it took until senior high school to over come it. At 12 I wouldn't have had any idea what to with a "loose" one anyway.

Every year in March the Fair would announce the entertainment schedule for Fair week. Being a small out of the way place with the appropriate budget we would get mostly a diet of B list teen bands or Country and Western acts .Along with a couple of nights of dirt track car racing the local county folk were happily entertained. I loved the dancing dogs.

One year though it was announced that the famous legend of TV and silver screen was coming to the Fair. None other than the Cisco Kid would be preforming with his "wonder horse" at the fair for 2 nights.

In those days Saturday morning TV ruled kid lives. Our early morning Saturday TV was not the cheap animation that kids see today but dramas about real people and their important adventures The bad guys were always soundly beaten by the good guys. There was no gray in these contests just good versus bad and bad always got their comeuppance in less that 30 minutes.

The cost for the extra Saturday sleep time for parents was all kinds of sugary cereals and plastic toys that kids demanded when at the store. Sky King and his chaste and proper niece Penny ,Lassie and Timmy, Beaver and Wally, filled the morning until the old man was sufficiently awake for Saturday sports.My Grandfather loved wrestling and but would always change over to American Bandstand. Hmmmm. For me and my friend the must see can't miss was the Cisco Kid and his ever faithful sidekick Pancho. It was totally non PC. The "Kid" spoke perfect English with no Spanish accent while Pancho spit out the English of a Tijuana street vendor. Pancho's speech was the perfect counter point to the "Kids" perfect English. It was great Saturday morning TV and all my friends were fans. From March announcement on I planned to maneuver my parent's visit the Fair to one of those days that the Cisco Kid and Poncho would be preforming.

A week before the Fair our local newspaper announce that the "Cisco Kid" would be visiting local communities to promote all the great and wonderful things the soon to be opened Fair would offer. He would arrive in front of the Berrian County Record in Buchanan at 11am the following Saturday to shake hands and sign autographs for his fans. Wow Wow. I immediately called my friends "The Cisco Kid is going to be in Buchanan on Saturday. " Bull". " Yes he"s going to be in front of the Record at 11am on Saturday. "We have to go." "How do you know?" " 'Read the paper."

On the appointed Saturday my friend and next door neighbour Mike and I after doing our house chores started the 7 block trek to the offices of the Berrien County Record. We left at 10am to make sure that we had front row viewing of the most important visitor to ever come to Buchanan. Along the way we planned to pick up friends so that our entourage was noticed and appreciated by the great TV star. Our first stop was was our friend Ted"s house Knock,knock, "Come on the Cisco Kid in 45 minutes." "Can't go. gotta mow the yard.""What do you mean you can"t go? Its the Cisco Kid.""My Dad told me to mow the yard by noon."

The next stop was our friend Pat"s house Knock ,knock no answer.Knock,knock,"Hey you looking for Pat?" a kid asked. " Yea". I said. "His mother took he and his sister shopping." "What." "They left about 10 minutes ago." "But the Cisco Kid is going to be here in half an hour.""Who's that? " he said . "Just the most famous person to ever come to Buchanan" I said. "Never heard of him."

Off we went knowing our friends would be kicking themselves for having missed the chance to see our hero and bask in his celebrity glory.When we turned the corner of the street the paper was located on there were only 4 other kids waiting. This wasn't right. With 10 minutes to go only 6 people were there to greet the famous movie star and TV actor? As we joined the throng of now 6, a man with a camera came out of the papers office.Now we were 7. At 11am our excitement began to grow.Well the kids anyway. The photographer was mumbling about his other plans and his day off.

As 11am became 11:30 and no Cisco the photographer's words were starting to become expletives .The August sun was hot and beating down and at noon I started to get worried. Looking up and down the street expecting to see the Kid riding up anytime with his horse. "Maybe he ran intro some outlaws" I said to Mike. "Maybe on the Red Bud Trail or the Niles -Buchanan Road." Mike commented.

At 12:15 we saw a black Ford turn on the street.The car pulled up in front of the paper's office and stopped. The back door opened opened and out stepped the Cisco Kid. No horse,, no sombrero no silver handled six shooters and no Poncho. "Hi kids sorry were running late" he said to all 7 of us. He smiled , the photographer snapped his picture and the Kid was ducking back into the car."Where's you horse? Where's Poncho" I yelled?" "Back in Hollywood ." he said as the door shut and the car drove off.

When I got home my mother wanted to share in the excitement I had in seeing the Cisco Kid. "Did you see him? she asked. "Eeeh. "You know his show is Thursday.Do you want to go?" "Naw Ive already seen him. I think I really want to see the baby calves and rabbits.

Mother Mother

2012-02-07T11:28:00.000-08:00

Living on a sailboat I tend to listen to a lot of Bob Marley and Jimmy Buffet. One of my favorites by Jimmy is Mother Mother Ocean. It got me to thinking about my mother. Not just the one who gave me birth but also the one s that are a reflection on who and what I am. As sit on the boat I. now have the time to revisit those things that made me who I am.

One of my mothers is my old home town Buchanan Michigan. It was a remarkable place to grow up and I thank God that he picked that place for me. It is much changed now but at that time a more perfect place for a growing boy could not be found.

It is not a big place just 5000 or so souls but there are only fond memories of that place and the people that lived around me. It was my world. I could be across town at a friends house and if we were a little out of line my mother was likely to get a phone call concerning my behavior. If the offence was bad enough I could easily get a switching when I got home.My children do not understand community. We live isolated lives.behind locked doors. Most of us could not tell you there neighbor's names. How easily we are controlled by the news that we only get from the TV.

Our small town was a community and from the age of 7, I was free to roam anywhere within the city limits "Do not go down by the river" I was cautioned. "Bums are down there sometimes". Of course that wast the first place we headed. Didn't know what a "bum" looked like but that's where we went. Never saw one but not from the lack of looking. Maybe it was just the river that worried my Mother.

My first bike was as important to me as my first car was. It was freedom from the adult world. It was transportation and it took me to all the important places of my daily life. My summers were consumed by pick up baseball games and the cold pond water of the McCoy creek behind fhe Elliot's house. Nothing was finer than jumping into that cold cold pond after a tough day on the dusty fields. How things have changed. Those fields are empty now until there is a coach and uniforms and a schedule that brings kids to the old ball park. To bad To bad

At night after going to bed in a non air conditioned upstairs "sweat box" I could with the window open hear the rhythmic thud of the large drop press at the Buchanan Steel factory across town. Thud, thud, thud . It was the sound of home and security. It was the sound of friends and community. It was the sound of a mothers heart beat. Thud thud thud.. Oh how I would love to hear that sound again

River Walk and Oyster Beds

2012-01-31T08:00:00.000-08:00

Stuart Florida is an old town located about 3 miles up the St Lucie river from the Atlantic inlet. At one time because of both the amount of salt in the river and the tidal flow over the rocky flats it was a center for oyster production.Well with over harvesting , development,dredging and poor water quality the oyster [population pretty much vanished.

As part of a nice government grant the city decided to build a wooden walk way extending out along and over the river. The grant also included an effort by a local environmental group to reclaim the old traditional oyster beds and re-introduce oyster development. These oysters are not for the local restaurants but their real benefit is in filtering the water. This helps to increase the purity and clarity of the water. With just a couple of years into the project you can tell that the water is greatly improved..

As you walk along the board walk you see the ongoing efforts to reestablish the beds. Oysters require a calcium base for the young ones to attach their "legs" to. Unfortunately the old beds have been dredge and over time the area has become a sand bar with no place for the little ones to grab on to. The first solution was to dump broken up concrete chunks out in the water for the little guys to attach to. The oysters love wood, steel and some kind of concrete but they didn't like the type of broken waste chunks that were first provided as a base for building up the colonies to replenish the beds.

Today the solution to the problem has been for the environmentalists to scower all the local oyster restaurants and take the left overwaste shells, bag them up in net bags and place them out in the water for the baby oysters to grab on to. It works and after only a couple of years the oysters are thriving

In The Drink

2012-01-28T09:15:00.000-08:00

I am afraid there will not be any pictures with this post because it was an unexpected event that occurred a couple of nights ago. The event happened around 10pm after I was settled down and getting ready to hit the sack when my friend Charlie called .Apparentlyy one of his guests from Alaska had taken his dingy into the marina for some dinner and other fun. Charlie had a surprise visitor (female) that had appeared out of the blue who was at fhe dock and needed transportatrion out to his boat. Charlie had called his guest several times to arrange for her transport back to his boat but his friend was not taking the call.

Charlie called me desperate to find a way to get her from the dock to his boat. I was not happy but in an act of friendship I agreed. My first comment was "this is a stupid bad idea". I plyuy on all my clothes again and headed for my dingy.

To board my dingy I have to climb off the back of the boat and step down three steps to reach water level.It is like a pool ladder. During the process I need to hold the line securing the dingy to the boat and then using my foot I move the dingy along to the position where I can step down into it so that I can sit on one of the inflated tubes to start the motor.I do this every day and it is no big deal. Being 10pm and in the dark with the wind blowing I positioned the dingy and stepped down only to find water and no floor. The wind had moved the dingy out of position With one hand on the line and another on the ladder I soon was struggling to hold on to both the ladder and the line. I lost my grip on the ladder and fell into the river. Brackish water smells bad and after I swam back to ladder and climbed out I smelled like old mildewed socks. After changing my wet stinky cloths and getting the lady back to Charlie's boat I swore never again. Most people do not know that most drownings occur at the dock

The Stuart Boat Show

2012-01-19T10:59:00.000-08:00

Sunday we walked across the Roosevelt Bridge to visit the Stuart Boat Show. I thought that since it was the last dy of the show that there would not be the larger crowds of Friday or Saturday. There were in fact lots of people that must have had the same idea because there were mobs of visitors. After paying our $10 bucks we entered through the gat to a varioty of food stands. I stoped at the Cuban stand. Not healthy but I had the deep fried "bacon" which was an inch thick piece of pork that just screamed heart attack. After adding some lime juice and hot sauce the crispy deep fried fat with a little meat was delicious. I dicovered real Cuban food in Miami and have become a great fan.

There are of course the boats. You can inspect million dollar yaghts to your hearts content. Just take off your shoes and you are welcomed to roam freely. It is sometime nice to see how the other half live. Not a problen if you can handle $10,000 in fuel cost to top off the tank.

Fishing 5 miles out

2012-01-18T12:21:00.000-08:00

I had decieded that after sitting here in Stuart for a month waiting for my friend Charlie to wrap up some family issues that we should go fishing. Looking for a "good " weather day we found some friends and headed out. Charlie had some artificial lures and we got a few beers and started trowling hoping for anything that would bite the hook. Stuart is known for the number of different spiecis of fish available including Sailfish,Cobie and my particulate favorie Black Fin Tuna. I had talk to several charter fishermen in their million dollar fishing boats. If you found the right spot catching fish would be no problem. I had so much confidence that I even brought along some soy sauce and hot sauce for what was to be a sushi feast. Well after about 3 fruitless hours and no fish or bites we decieded to forget it and go swimming.

Being over 5 miles from shore in about 80 feet of water I was surprised that the water was so warm. The reason that the water was so much warmer than the water close to shore was that we were close to the Gulf Stream that brings the warm waters of the Carribean north. The other surprise was how clean and clear the water was. I can not wait to head soth sometime next week to do some snorkling and catch some lobsters.

Christmas

2011-12-28T08:39:00.000-08:00

It has been many years since I was able to spend a Christmas with Memi and Ken. Like most intelligent northerners they become “snow birds” for the winter months. They pack up either just before or just after Thanksgiving and move to their “tin” estate for the next 4 months. Then like the Robins they will return to their home in Michigan when warmer weather retunes. We have an aunt and an uncle “full time Florida folk” with whom the yearly sojourn provides opportunities to spend time catching up and help for errands. The winter months keep them out of the snow and helps keep their family close.

The excitement of Christmas seemed to allude itself from me this year. Being away from my kids and my grandkids made me a little melancholia. We visited with family and enjoyed taking their golf cart around the neighborhood looking at all the light displays but for me it was a little sad. I was remembering all our Christmas’s together , putting up lights, the excitement of the kids and the traditions that we established for or family. They will never beg again the same.

I can say that I felt immensely better when on Christmas morning we were able to SKYPE The morning of present opening and the childhood excitement of my Daughters Christmas morning. We saw the whole scene of flying wrapping paper and joy. I also realized that even though it might never be the same for me the traditions are still the same for my children.

At anchor in Stuart

2011-12-25T08:59:00.000-08:00

I have been at anchor in Stuart Florida for over a week. The primary reason is that my buddy Charlie is also here. He is staying on a mooring ball in the Sunset Bay Marina about a ¼ mile away from me. There is only a little difference now in being on a mooring ball or at anchor. The area in which I am at anchor is very protected. Very little wave action and since my anchor chain is 1 ½ inch chain I am not likely to slip if there is a blow of some kind. Charlie has given me all the lock codes for the marina so I have access to the lounge, showers and laundry. Instead of paying the $275 a month for the privilege I get to use the facilities for free.

I tried a little fishing the other day. My friends at the Bait Shop in Clearwater Beach sold me all the “proper set up’s for salt water angling. I know about bass and bluegills but the mysteries of snappers and ling have evaded me. The confusion was solved by a rig with a bobber and a line down to a rubber shrimp. I have tried this now several times and have just watched the bobber float around with not ever a nibble. After a while I thought to heck with this, so I went down into the galley and pulled out a piece of smoked turkey. I took the fake rubber shrimp off and replaced it with the turkey. Not 30 seconds later I was battling a 1 ½ foot catfish.

It of course swallowed the hook so it took me about 10 minutes to get the darn thing off the hook. I was in the catch and release mode so back it went. At least I now know that I can catch fish and how to do it.

Back to Water

2011-12-20T06:07:00.000-08:00

Well here bI am. I finally am back on the boat.It has been almost two years to make the hard commitment to leave my home my "things" and most difficultly my family. I was not doing well at home. I did not visit with friend,' I did not go out to do anything unless I was dragged by my son or daughters. I was isolated by my own choosing. Something had to change..

I arrived in Sebastian with the expectation that the Karol Anne would be in the water ready to go. This was not the case as the marina staff felt that a few things needed to be upgraded before I left the dock.First the bottom should be painted. This they could do for $350 but convieniently forgot to mention a $1000 in paint. The next need was new batteris. This was somewhat expected so no problem. After 7 6 volt deepcycle golf cart batteries and another $1000 I was off headed to Stuart to hook up with my old buddy Charlie.The current plan and they always change is to stay in Stuart till early Fanuary and then head to the Bahamas. If not then south to the Key's. Who knows maybe both

Back to the Bait House

2010-04-23T07:32:00.000-07:00

On my way back home I had the chance to visit with some great friends in Clearwater Beach at the Bait House. When I left for the Keys back in November I promised to come for a visit as soon as I could. Christian was just getting the restaurant set up but the weather just did not cooperate and I left without the promised meal. Fortunately they had coolers full of beer, so all was not lost. Justin had given me a couple of cruising guides that I also wanted to return.

Needless to say my visit was timed to coincide with a steady hard rain which washed out the Sunday crowd. The great thing about that was that we had the place to ourselves. The bar area is sheltered so we partook of many of the 60 plus varieties and told restaurant and sea stories

They prepar
ed a variety of their best of the menu. We started with "smoked fish spread" then on to grilled hog fish. If you have never had Hog fish it is because people who catch it are not likly to sell them. They are that good. Next we had clams and griled shrimp. The finish was my first ever fish taco's. everything was great.

I went sailing to see new places and meet new people. Among the first were Justin, Amy, Christian and their families. I am proud to call them friends and look forward to seeing them again

Sebastian River

2010-04-14T09:26:00.000-07:00

Sebastian River Marina.

Tonight will be my last night on the Karol Anne till this winter. I have very mixed feelings about leaving her and heading home. I won’t spend this post on any reflections about my first adventures aboard her now but I can say that I will miss her and look forward to my next voyages.

I searched around and decided to haul out for the summer at the Sebastian River Marina. It’s not the cheapest but it has all the things that provide me with great confidence for the way they prepare for the hurricane season. All boats are anchored in the concrete pads so even the strongest wind won’t knock them over. The crew here has given me all the tasks to prepare the boat and will take care of the ones I can’t do after I leave.

The Marina itself is off the ICW on the Indian River about 20 miles south of Cape Canaveral. On Thursday morning the rental car people will come pick me up and I will be off to spend a few days with my Aunt in Zephyrhills. I do have another task as well and that would be to return a couple of books to my friends at the Bait House and get that promised meal. I can’t wait to see them.

Vero Beach

2010-04-13T18:14:00.000-07:00

On my way north from Stuart I stopped at the Vero Beach City Marina to fill up the tank with diesel. I had motored about 25 miles up the ICW and found that I needed a break from driving the boat on the narrow winding channel. When I looked over to the mooring field I decided to spend the night and wound up staying 9 days. Over that time I came to the conclusion that my bring the boat the 1200 miles by myself was both impractical and foolish. I realized that I was ready not only to go home but to also be home. So I made up my mind to find a place in Florida to store the boat for the summer. I would have loved to bring the boat all the way back to the Chesapeake but without another crewmate. Always with sailors the plans change with the circumstances. I just wasn’t up to the grind.

Unlike Hernando Beach Vero Beach actually has a beautiful sand beach. My visit there was pleasant and the community provides free bus transport almost anywhere for free. I would get on a bus that does circular routes and would see the town always ending back where I started. My favorite place was the farmers market.

I have always liked farmers markets and the one in Vero Beach is great. Actual orange and citrus growers bring in many different varieties of oranges and grapefruit that have subtle but delicious flavors I have never had before. There were always samples to try and I made sure I tried them all. The best surprise was the sweetness of the off the tree ripe grapefruit. Other stands of course had vegetables, others had home made dip and sauce recipes always with samples. I would have filled my galley but to store the boat there must be no foods aboard so I feasted on the sample. /Ve

Leavng Stuart

2010-04-01T06:48:00.000-07:00

I have been hanging around Stuart Florida now for a week. I had a few things I wanted to take care of like gluing the floor to the dingy and getting ready for the next leg home. My rowing is getting better so purchase of a new motor is on the back burner. I will be keeping pretty much to the ICW for the long haul home. In many places the channel is very narrow and the water depths are low. I only need 4 ½ feet but even in a deep channel that is narrow straying to the edges put you at risk of running aground.

The social life here in the marina is very active and you always seem to bump into people that you have seen before. My first week in Clearwater back in October I met Steve and Beth on the Windsong. We have been bumping into one another ever since. After they left Clearwater we ran into each other in Key West. Much later I spotted them on the dock at Dinner Key. Now they have pulled into my current mooring in Stuart. So it is that “cruisers” get to know one another over distances and common destinations. This marina is always sponsoring meet and greets and cook outs. As a single I find that couples tend to hang together and us single guys have our own conversations.

I will leave very early tomorrow and will judge how far I can get. In truth I have no idea were I will be or what to expect. I have all the charts and guide books to assist me so I feel ready, just a little nervous

Miami

2010-03-30T07:48:00.000-07:00

Before I get farther up the coast I want to spend a little time on Miami. Sailing from off Key Largo to the city of Miami is about 45 miles. I started early so that when I got to the City it would be mid-day. The tall buildings were visible from at least 10 miles out and in the clear but breezy ocean they were a welcomed site. I knew my friend Charlie was planning ot show me around town so I gave him a call when I thought I was about 2 hours out. My plan was to take the Florida Cut next to Key Biscayne and dock at Dinner Key Marina in Coconut Grove.

Charlie and Claire were there on the dock to meet me. We soon hustled off to her condo in ritzy Coral Gables. The first thing I wanted was to shower before heading out to meet some of their friends. I slept on an air mattress and spent the night onshore for the first time since September. It was like riding a bicycle “no problem“. Of course being away from the boat I worried about the Karol Anne.

We spent the next day checking out south Dade County looking at foreclosed property. The economy has hit the real estate community at least as hard as anywhere else. Lots to look at. It’s going to take a while to work through this mess but if you have cash there are many good investment opportunities. I don’t know anything about south Florida but Charlie is home here.

I stayed for St. Patrick’s Day and the big street party in Coral Gables. We had a great time and then headed back to the condo. I had never been to Miami other than through the airport but my view of the place is very Latin, very international and a very good place to visit.

Starting my way home

2010-03-28T09:39:00.000-07:00

Well you can say that I am official headed home. Home is back to the Chesapeake and Downingtown. The start of the ICW (inter coastal waterway) is the Rickenbacker Bridge in Miami. That is mile 1094 ending in Norfolk Va. The start was beautiful as I sailed out of Government Cut in Miami headed to West Palm Beach. We made great time and anchored off Peanut Island inside the harbor and had a front row seat of classic coastal sailing vessels blasting away at a bunch of enactors located on shore to the delight of hundreds of tourists. Who was who or what it was all about I don’t know but the battle of West Palm Beach was sure entertaining. Cannons roared and trumpets blew but I don’t think anyone was harmed and the status quo remained even as the boat load of attacking tourists docked and called it a day.

Our next day was not so grand as we headed to Stuart . Thought the wind was blowing from the south the seas were at 6-8 feet. As soon as I got out beyond the sea wall the wind and waves made it clear that we should turn around. In the process of coming about we were caught in a wave trough that really healed us over and the resulting whip over the top caused my dingy motor to fly of into the sea. In addition the primary engine stopped. With the wind blowing hard toward shore and no power we were forced to raise the sails enough to begin headway away from the shore and danger. As the sail went up we started to gain forward motion away from the shore. I made the decision that returning to the inlet without power and high seas was not something I was interested in attempting. We decided to continue on to Stuart and hope that time and God’s grace would provide a solution to running the inlet at Port St. Lucie. All during the 30 mile run I kept thinking and praying about the weather and starting the engine. Two miles from the inlet the engine miraculously started giving us the safety factor to charge through the breakwaters to safety. Thank you God.

Marathon and Boot Key

2010-03-22T14:08:00.000-07:00

Marathon and Boot Key are stopping off places when heading north to Miami. It is only 50 miles from Key West and for a sailor it is a good full sail. I seem to take my time so I spent a night in New Found Harbor before ending up in Marathon.
It seems that lots and lots of cruisers love Marathon and Boot Key Harbor. It is much protected from weather and has a very large City managed mooring field with over 150 balls to hook up to. Everything was always crowded and busy.

The waiting list for those mooring balls was over 40 when I arrived. There are no reservations so you have to be in the harbor to get on the list. For those of us just staying a couple of days and there are many and those waiting for a mooring the place becomes very crowded. If you are a facebook friend you will recall that because I was so close to my neighbors with too short an anchor line I sliped into someone on a very windy night. The place is way too popular for me. The facilities are good but I get the feeling of “poor mans” yacht club. Lots of people live here on their boats, lots of snobs on their mooring ball looking askew at those that just anchor. Everyone had an opinion and an attitude. I was glad to leave. Maybe if I had gossipy women with me I might have fit in but all the women I had were great.

Miami on the other hand was a great change of pace. I met up with my buddy Charlie from Key West who was staying at his girlfriend Clair’s for a while. After a 12 hour sail from Key Largo to Miami I met up with them in Dinner Key Marina. Off we went to Clair’s high rise condo in Coral Gables. Nice very nice.

Bahia Honda Key

2010-03-09T09:08:00.001-08:00

Bahia Honda Key is about 35 miles north of Key West. It is a beautiful State Park with what is rare in the Keys a sandy beach.. Most beaches at resorts have to haul in tons of sand because the coral type of sand is so coarse that walking on it is a form of torture on the feet. Bahia Honda is small and a very lovly spot for swimming and snorkeling if the weather is warm if not you can still stroll around and enjoy the scenery.

The small anchorage is not to be used when there is any wind. The tidal current is such that the bottom is swept clear to the bed rock so there is nothing to grab the hook. Fortunately the government has placed a mooring ball in the harbor and if not being used you can hook up to. The ball itself says “for government use only” so with the approval of my pirate friend Jason who told me about it, I hooked up anyway. They weren’t using it and the State Park guys don’t care about the Fed’s. ball so I had a safe mooring while the wind howled and all the other boats ran for more sheltered places.

Bahia Honda has one of the few remnants of the railroad that Henry Flagler built from Miami to Key West. It lasted for about 30 years before a couple of big hurricanes knocked it down with the loss of more than 100 workers that were washed away.

I think I would have enjoyed it much more if the weather had not been so cold

Leaving Friends

2010-03-06T09:52:00.000-08:00

Before leaving Key West I want to tell you about all the friend that I now have in that very interesting place. I was able to attend the first Seven Seas Cruising Association’s cruisers lunch at the Grand Key resort. As a member I am able it receive all types of information and tips from my fellow cruisers as well as hobnob and swap stories about all sorts of things. In Key West the station is headed by new volunteers Karen and her husband Evan. They help with local knowledge and transportation as well as on shore support. Great folks to know.

Other friends included Charlie previously discussed in this blog and Jason who bought his boat with no engine, no head, no galley for $3500.00. It is a 36’ Choy Lee which he sailed down from South Carolina and if there was a pirate attitude he has it. This guy lives his life his way and works just long enough to have enough money for the next destination. He plans to be in Key West for a while and I helped him get a job with Evan in the maintenance department of Evans property management business. The guy was a marine electrician in the Navy so he knows his stuff forward and backward.

Finally there is Van. I can easily say this guy would be a “best friend” if we were around each other all the time. He is the person that most examples Key West to me. Van grew up in southern California in Huntington Beach. He is not a big guy but he received a full ride at San Francisco State as a collegiate wrestler. He has a degree in International relations. His politics are very very left wing but unlike most extremists that I have met he will always respect your very conservative opinion. As he dingyed past my boat he would ask if I wanted company which with him was always welcomed. He would take whatever beer he had and after putting them in my ice box would sit and discuss the world around us.

After college he was invited to teach wrestling in at a camp for under prialage children in Guatamala. Soon his heart was inspired by the struggle of the poor for “equality” and after a short time became an unarmed body guard for various union leaders in the country. The thought being that a man surrounded by Americans was not as likely to be shoot as one with no American shields. He was one of those idealist that defy reality but as happens sooner or later the reality of the real powers in the world can break you. They were not able to protect the lower level union guys and many just disappeared. After six months he was thrown out of the country and his union leader took 2 million from the CIA and left Guatamala and now lives in Miami. “We lost, we lost” is all he will say. After that he said to hell with it and went into to pot business until the police he was paying to protect him said his time was up.

Now he bounces from job to job as a waiter and bartender just killing time. I have heard many stories as a sailor and I am pretty good at tall tales. Van is the real deal as crushed idealist and kind compassionate soul. I will miss him and will return to Key West just to sit again and discuss the world we live in with him.

Friends and Visits

2010-02-21T11:09:00.000-08:00

I had a call sometime in January from and old and valued friend and classmate from Buchanan Michigan. If it had not been for Sharro I know for certain that I never would have reconnected with my wonderful classmates from the Buchanan High class of 1969. She reached out to me at a time when all the world was collapsing around me and made me realize that friendships, even ones long forgotten could supply that special support needed when times were their worst.

Sharron called to let me know she was coming to Key West on a cruise ship in early February. Needless to say I was elated to get my chance to show she and her husband Scott around town. “What would you like to see” I asked. “I don’t know I have never been anywhere.” I know that to be the truth so suggested a couple of the regular tourist sites like Hemingway’s house or the Southern Most Point. For a little fun I suggested the clothing optional bar on Duval Street.

They arrived with friends Kevin and Denise neighbors from across the street on a cool but sunny day. We walked through the Truman Annex up to Hemmingway’s house then on to the Southern Most Point. I took them to one of my favorite places for lunch “Pepes” a real local’s only place off the beaten path for their Mahi Mahi pepper chowder. Along the way Sharron really wanted to go to the clothing optional bar. As with most cruise ship tours “in in the morning and out by the afternoon” so we went up on the third floor but the place was still closed. So much for pushing the envelope

The Life

2010-02-03T09:42:00.000-08:00

Key West is a place of many contrasts. The primary lure of the place is the fact that it is the end of the road. You can’t just end up here, you have to make a choice to drive the 150 miles south from Miami and then have to turn around and drive those same miles back. Most people come here for just the reason that you can’t drive any further south than the southern most poet. Then of course the swash buckling romance of the past brings others.

Very early on it was a pirate stop over to ambush the Spanish gold ships as they followed the Gulf Stream around the Florida peninsula. The current is only on an average just 2 miles outside the reef. Next are all the colorful personalities that have made this place famous by just living here. John Audubon lived here for awhile as did Robert Frost. Their houses are open daily for tours. Harry Truman is the only president to sleep here . You can tour that place to as well as the house of Earnest Hemmingway. Last and not least is Jimmy Buffet. He lived here working as a deck hand on charter fishing boats. I don’t know where he lived but I am sure I walked by it one time or another.

I now know my way around . Laundry, groceries, are all within walking distance of the dingy dock. I have friends both on the boats near me as well as on shore. When waling around I always stumble into some place or event that then reminds me of the fact that though a small portion of the town is very tourist, it is still acommunity of families. It though should always be remembered that almost all those families depend on the people on the cruise ships and those south bound on US hwy. 1

The Wreckers Race

2010-02-02T08:39:00.000-08:00

On Sunday a group of about 30 sailboats participated in the Wreckers Race from Key West to Sand Key out on the reef. The total distance to the Key is 7 miles so not far but a good sail. The origins of the race come from the early primary commerce of Key West. The Island is surrounded by reefs that the unwary merchant ship would frequently crash into. The first ship to arrive on the site by maritime law had the salvage rights to the cargo. Therefore the announcement onshore of a wreck meant a race for the rights of salvage. The local lore is that when business was slow the enterprising Key Westers would move the shoal lights to cause ships to believe they were in deep water until they ran aground. This practice ended after the Navy moved onto the Key.

Our race was just an excuse by the organizers for a party. Since I am by myself I enlisted a fellow on the hook guy to find crew and secure provisions Our provisions primarily consisted of chips , beer a little ham and more beer. As the Captain and designated driver my roll was to get us out and back. Charlie was in charge of provisions and crew. Let me introduce you to Charlie.

Charlie is on a 35’ trawler anchored about 300 years away. He is currently an Alaskan bush pilot in the summers specializing in taking tourist to see the big bears up close and personal. He has the pictures to prove it and in fact uses his picture book to introduce himself to women and anyone else interested. I can tell you it works. He is always in the company of people (women) interested in his life. To anyone interested in finding a way to engage others in conversation a book full of close-up pictures of bears works. He is also a retied ex homicide cop from Miami.

Charlie said to me on his way by my boat “Don’t worry I will get the crew” “No more than six” I said. Two hours later Charlie calls me on the cell “ I’ve been to all the strip clubs on Duval Street and I have 6 strippers that want to go with us. They will meet us on the dock at 11”. Well I did need crew and I didn’t have anybody to ask so why not.

Well the thought of it was better than the results. The day of the race was rainy and cold. When Charlie got to the dock only 2 strippers showed and they thought that our crew position were paid positions. Nope just for fun. When Charlie got back from buying provisions they had split. A couple of locals did fill in. Maybe if the day had been hot and sunny we may have been the boat most likely to be surrounded by the most boats. In spite of Charlie disappointment in crew we had a great time

The Other Key West

2010-01-16T11:11:00.000-08:00

Due to a few equipment challenges I have decided to spend a little more time in Key West. I have my dingy so going into town is no problem and the anchorage off Flemington Key is close and fairly well protected from wind and storm. Every morning I make either tea or coffee and weather permitting I sit outside in the cockpit and watch the day begin. In most cases that includes the arrival and docking of the cruise ships and my various neighbors boating into town. Several of the boats around me are permanently anchored here and the folks on them are probably commuting to their jobs onshore.

At the dingy dock it’s a short walk to a grocery store, hardware store and the other businesses of the “old town” area. I enjoy walking around the neighborhoods and discovering the off the beaten track interesting places. Overall Key West is just a community of people just like any other place but with a history.

I have always been fascinated with cemeteries. As a kid I grew up c lose to one. My friends and I made use of it as our play ground. I can’t remember how many battles were fought against the Japs and Germans or the contests to find the oldest date on a tombstone. The pinnacle of my year (other than Christmas) occurred at the Memorial Day Services following the parade. It was the beginning of summer and the beginning of summer vacation and free ice cream and strawberries the veterans gave out at the end of the parade. For me the cemetery was both a place of fun and of a beginning.

On one of my walks I stumbled into the Key West Cemetery. For a place with a long and storied history the cemetery itself is rather young. The oldest graves only date to the late 1880s I read that this was due to the fact that the original cemetery was washed away in a hurricane and the new cemetery was built on the highest ground on the Key to prevent a similar event from occurring. Like the cemeteries in New Orleans most of the dead are buried above ground. As you read the inscriptions you find the stories of life as much as death. Mothers, fathers, sons and daughters, young and old now all eternal...>/3.bp.blogspot.com/_bmpeXTrGc4Y/S1IPowsf1gI/AAAAAAAAAGc/D6U48mwLh9Y/s1600-h/key+West+047.jpg">
The graves of the recovered bodies of the sailors from the Battleship Maine and their memorial .are here as well. Their deaths started a war in 1898 and when you view these markers you can’t help but envision these young men. Mixed in the site are markers the have much later dates of men who chose to join their shipmates that they had survived. The bond for loyalty remaining through the years.

The Boys

2010-01-08T07:59:00.000-08:00

I can tell you that the time I spent with Jim, Eric and Tyler will stay with me a long time. Seeing them go truly made me very sad. I will miss them and their presence will now be filled with the everyday and mundane.

The weather just did not want to cooperate at least as far as Key West was concerned but will still manage to fill our time with so special times. The two that stand out were renting scooters for a day and then on the last day sailing to Sombo Marine Sanctuary and snorkeling.

We quickly tired of the “tourist “nature of the town of Key West. Everything is geared to the cruise ship tourist. In for the day to buy “stuff” and then back on the boat to sail to the next destination. The shops are all full of things that nobody needs but buy anyway to have a souvenir of once having been to Key West.

We rented scooters and toured the whole Island. It was great because we discovered that the downtown area is just a small part of a much greater community of schools churches and other kinds of normal life. We went everywhere and had a great time just cruising around. I highly recommend it and think that when I get back it would be fun to have a motor bike.

The weather then turned cold but with the dingy in hand we motored from our anchorage in the Flemington Key Bight onto shore. On New Years day we headed to the Rum Barrel to watch the Flyers in the Winter Classic. The Rum Barrel is owned by Philly native Pat Croce so it is the heart of Philly sports in Key West. Low and behold we sat down right next to Pat and his family having lunch. He and Tyler had a conversation about West Chester.

On our last full day we sailed to Sombo Reserve. Its about 6 miles off the Green 9 marker so it took about an Hour and a half to get their. Barracuda lobster and myriads of colorful fish. I will truly miss them.

New Years Eve Key West

2010-01-02T05:47:00.000-08:00

I guess one of the points for coming to Key West was to experience the celebration that happens on New Years Eve. I am not a crowd kind of person so if you are not either my suggestion is stay away from here. All the activities that anyone might associate with a gigantic street party are available in great abundance and then some.

Duval Street is the center of most activities. By 6:00pm the cops have blocked off the street for 9 blocks and the throngs somehow actually fill the space. The entire length is made up of bar, boutique, restaurant, bar T shirt shops (everything in store $5), bar restaurant, bar. I think you get the picture. The crowds include families, young couples, seniors, teens, pre-teens groups of guys and girls all looking for something. The general activity is walking first up the street and then back down. There and of course a few unique characters but they are not as common as I expected. I think the biggest surprise for me was that by 8:00pm the boys decided to call it a night and turned in. It was left to me to see the New Year in.

It is funny how I found walking first up the street and then back down to be pointless. Sure the music was good, the cross dressers were a curiosity and the drunks were amusing but I just found it a little sad. I will put the experience down as a “been there, done that”.

The Westin Marina

2009-12-30T14:56:00.000-08:00

Because of meeting two special people (Fab and Chris) in Venice I was able to secure a slip in the Westin Marina for a dirt cheap price. By dirt cheap I mean more than I have ever paid before but compared to any other place around here it was way cheaper. The boy’s arrived around 11am and brought their bags on board. After settling in, we decided to take a look around. Key West is rather avant gaurd. The place has been known for its artists and as a Navy/Coast Guard Base. Founded primarily for the business of salvaging ship wrecks it grew as a military base in the early 1900s

The boys had spent a good bit of time researching the various activities to around town. Our marina is right off the main drag known as Duval Street. Also in town were 2 very large cruise ships and their several thousand passengers. Cruise ships arrive early in the morning and then the thousands race back on board to sail overnight to the next place to buy more T shirts and souvenirs. These folks packed the “famous” well know gotta see places. And generally walked up and down the main street with cameras and dollars in hand. Likewise we found all the spots including one known as Adam and Eves a clothing optional watering hole for the less inhibited. Being early it wasn’t open so there was no temptation to climb the 3 flights up to check it out.

Later we walk to the beach and took a brief swim in the 71 degree waters then a dip in the Westins hot tub out for pizza and then to bed by 9pm. tomorrow we will rent scooters and explore

Marco River Marina

2009-12-20T14:26:00.000-08:00

I was not planning to go to a marina while on Marco Island but as any sailor will tell you “a sailor's plans are made of Jell-O”. My day started with looking for my cell phone. I found it outside under the Bimini on top of a damp towel. Every day I try to call to my mother. Her phone rang, she answered and after I said “ hello” she answered “hello is there any body there?” .”Can’t you hear me?” I said. “Hello Travis is that you?” Shouting now “can you hear me?” Well everything from there started to go downhill fast. After fiddling with my phone and thinking that maybe the problem was on her end I tried again several times. The last call was “Travis I am so worried. I don’t know what to do. Maybe I should call the Coast Guard.” I put a call out on my VHS radio and found someone to call her and reassure her that I was OK. They called but she didn’t pick up. Well I absolutely needed a phone anyway, so I radioed Marco Island Marina and headed for the dock.

Like most marinas, the people are friendly and very helpful. I filled up the tank at the fuel dock, tied up at the slip and went in search for a phone. The marina was happy to let me use theirs so Mimi was reassured. Then off to find a “throw away”phone at the local grocery store. While I was here, I provisioned, I picked up a portable VHS radio at West Marine, and caught up on my Email and blog. There were also several boat chores that needed to be finished before the sail to Key West.

All in all it was a good thing. Well tomorrow at 5pm I will be off to Key West. I will be wearing warm clothes because it’s supposed to be in the upper 40s. I will be picking up a better chart to go along with my GPS. The nights in the marina have helped me feel well prepared.

Little Marco Island

2009-12-20T10:06:00.000-08:00

Running out time I made the 40 mile jump to Marco Island. When the weather cooperates I will be making the 80 mile jump to Key West from here. For sailors like me an ideal weather window is an absolute requirement. I do not plan to be caught out in 10’ waves in the Gulf or anywhere else for that matter. So after arriving the weather was not going to be cooperative for the next several days so I looked for a good plus interesting anchorage. I found one in a channel behind Little Marco Island.

It is very narrow but has good depth and anchor holding. The guide book said it was a great place to wait out bad weather and enjoy some beautiful scenery after clearing through Capri Pass into the Big Marco River I chugged up the ICW (grrrr) to marker 33. I turned into a charming cut that led to a shallow outlet (pass) to the Gulf with signs to go slowly and watch for Manatees. The guide book claimed that the best spots were closest to the pass so that’s where I headed.

What the guide book didn’t say was that the surrounding mangroves harbored swarms and swarms of mosquitoes. It didn’t take me long to realize that unless I wanted to be literally carried away,I had better button up the cabin. By then of course, I spent the night trying to rid myself of the persistent little vermin. Fortunately they retreated during the days

I had planned during my stay to test out both my new kayak and dingy. The guide book also failed to mention that the cut had tidal flow with the speed of a river. Only at peak high tide was the current not flowing hard in or hard out. That also meant no swimming because getting back to the boat would have been a real challenge. After boat chores I did a lot of reading until the weather hit.

Wind and rain and more wind. The weather reports were for 10’ to 15’ seasin the Gulf.
First it came form the south and then hard from the north. From the south it brought rain from the north cold wind. I know its not the cold that my friends in the north are enduring but when you go from 80 to 55 overnight it does feel like it’s freezing.

I spent one night constantly up, cheeking the anchor fearing I would be blown down the length of the cut. The combination of a strong tidal current in from the south and very strong north wind kept me constantly sideways to the winds for hours. Losing my hold could have easily put me aground somewhere in the narrow channel. I let out more anchor chain several times during the night just to be safe.

Venice Florida

2009-12-20T09:55:00.000-08:00

Needing to be in Key West by the 29th of December, I shoved off for some intermediate stops to get me close enough for the one long push to the Key. A logical stop was an overnight stay at the Crows Nest Marina in Venice. I had traveled down the ICW (which I hate) from Sarasota because of the poor weather and hooked up at the Marina.

A marina is an out of pocket cost. When you arrive you don’t sit around for some kind of margaritaville relaxation. There are things that need to be done in the short time you will have access to shore amenities.

As soon as I hook up to the “shore power” I load up my laundry and pack up my “ditty bag” and head for the laundry and showers. After a few days there are only a few describable pleasures that beat a long and I mean long hot shower. I will take two a day if I can fit them in. Just so you know the boat does have hot water and I can take a shower but I am a miser when it comes to water. The boat does have a water maker also but the energy to run it sucks the batteries dry in just a short time. Like wise I am also an energy miser. S o I settle for bird baths.

Marina’s are also the place you hobnob with your fellow cruiser and find new friend. Chris and Barb were on their way back home to Panama City from Key West. They have a 42’ catamaran that is 24’ wide that includes every comfort of home. After a very small help I was invited to dinner. ”Sure, what are you going to have?” I was expecting cruiser provisions like hamburger helper or such and happy to get it. ‘Oh, we will be having rib eye steaks, shrimp and baked potatoes”. “Let me go get a bottle of wine.”

It was a fine meal and then after discovering that I was headed to Key West they arranged (at very low cost for Key West standards) a slip at the Westin Marina right in the heart of the city. I was expecting to have a mooring ball and a 10 minute dingy ride to a cab stand

Sarasota

2009-12-13T13:32:00.000-08:00

Another blustery day and I faced headwinds all the way to Sarasota. I arrived at the anchorage behind Golden Gate Point at about 1:30. I am pretty cautious when entering a place to “drop the hook” but seeing lots of other boats already there made me confident to make the move.

I again stayed on the inside due to the winds. The ICW is a marked channel between the barrier islands and the mainland. My GPS has all the markers and the channels that cut through and around small islands and estuaries. In some places the channel is only large enough for one boat. There are some pretty big yachts going up and down so you must pay constant attention to your position, or you will find yourself stuck in the shallows.

You begin to notice some interesting things about my fellow boaters. Power boats usually don’t anchor out. Power boats go into marinas I like marinas to but I have a budget and I also take pleasure in my self sufficiency. It doesn’t cost anything to anchor but a marina visit is about $2.00 a foot. For me that is about $80 bucks for the pleasure of a shower (I can do that on board), electrical hook up (I have electricity already), cable TV (don’t have one) and internet connection (UMMM… internet). It’s a pretty social time. Power boaters are headed somewhere. Sailors have plans but they always change. I think it’s more about the journey

My fellow sail boater’s seem to be of like mind. Anchorages are populated almost exclusively by my peers. They load their boats up with all kind of boat toys and lash various containers to the rails for what ever else won’t fit in the cabin. I can only guess what the inside looks like. I think of those poor souls that stack newspapers and other stuff into there houses making small paths to get from one room to another

What is all that stuff

Leaving Clearwater

2009-12-06T15:39:00.001-08:00

Well I am off. I am headed for Sneed Island on the Manatee River in the south part of Tampa Bay. I have been anchored in the Clearwater Bay to do a final shakedown of the boat. Having been at the dock for a month I needed to check out the systems again since I am not planning to have much shore contact until I reach Key West around the 26th of Dec .Fortunately I was able to solve an inverter problem that cropped up.

I loved being here in Clearwater. I made friends and I will miss them all. I need to move on though. I plan to look over the horizon for the next adventure. I will be sailing on my next leg with the SV nightingale. If you want check them out their blog it is www.sloopnightingal.com.

I do not know when my next post might be but I will be bloging along the way. So until then much love
TRAVIS

Zack goes fishing

2009-12-04T04:59:00.000-08:00

My cousin Cathy who now lives in the Sun City of Florida, about an hour south of Clearwater came for a visit. She called to make sure I was going to be around and asked if it would be alright to bring her 8 year old grandson Zackery along. “Has he ever fished”? I asked. Well I don’t know but I don’t think so”.

My fondest memories of my cousin other than the Christmas Eve. Family gift-fests was the time we spent at our Grandparent’s cottage on Christie Lake. It was a kid wonderland. We were free there; our grandparents would open the door and say “go”... We explored, we swam, and we rowed the boats anywhere on the lake that we wanted to go, but we always fished. A very small pole and a paper cup with worms (you had to bait your own hook, no exceptions) and we were deadly with the small fish hiding under the boats or in the concrete blocks that were pier supports.

In the evening my grandparents would take us out on the lake for serious Blue Gill fishing. They used cane poles and I cannot ever remember returning from the trip without them catching their limit. “If you caught it you clean it”. At 8 years old I knew how to clean fish.

My grandmother was the fisherman in the family. She was never “skunked”. If you wanted to catch fish, sit in the seat next to her. I think it is a gift. My father had it too. When Karol and I would visit their lake cottage the neighbors would see us pull in. “Hi is your Dad coming? We want to catch some fish”. This is not a fish story.

Here at the Marina the support post are encrusted with barnacles. You can get a scraper from the fuel dock and if you chip away at them the Sheepshead will come a running. because they love barnacles. They also love fiddler crabs. I went down to the Bait house for a dozen of the little crabs.

By the time Zack got to the boat it was as easy as catching fish hiding in the concrete blocks at Christie Lake

Officially the "Karol Anne"

2009-12-01T05:12:00.000-08:00

Well it is now official. My 37’ Endeavour is now named the Karol Anne. The paper work has been submitted to the U.S. Coast Guard for the formal name change. The documentation has also been sent to the Delaware Dept. of Fisheries for registration. “It’s a tax thing”.

When I got to the Marina I had asked around for a sign person that could help me with the lettering to rename the boat. You would have thought that it would be easy to find someone. Not so. Finally I was referred to a yacht broker who was able to refer me to Mad Dog Signs. I called and was asked if the boat was in or out of the water. Well obviously the boat is in the water so they needed to see if they could do the job by visiting my slip.

The white haired gentleman that came to inspect the job had several requirements before the job could be done. “You will need to remove the old name”. OK. “You’re going to need to get all the glue off”. OK. “I am going to need some kind of steady platform to work from.” OK. The Marina has a pontoon for things like that. “So what’s the name you want?”” The name will be the Karol Anne.” “Where’s the hailing port going to be?” “Wilmington Delaware.” “Oh Wilmington Delaware I got thrown in jail there.” “Really what happened”?” A couple of bottles of whiskey and a couple of cases of beer”.

When I introduced myself I said “Hi I am Travis”. “Just call me Mad Dog”. Mad Dog is 68 years young. I don’t think I could have found a more perfect person to help me rename the Karol Anne.

It took Mad Dog less than an hour to get his job done. It took me almost two days to get mine completed

Thanksgiving 2009

2009-11-28T17:39:00.001-08:00

This is my first Thanksgiving away from family and friends. One of the reasons for taking this voyage was to meet new people and make new friends. So far so good.

I discovered the Bait House on my daily walks. It has now become my “hang out” place in the marina. My relationship began when I found that I could get a reasonably good WIFI connection off their deck. When I asked for access it was generously given. This site is the meeting place of local fishermen,boaters, and tourists.

The Bait House sells live bait and fishing tackle but the vision of the partners is to create a place that serves the “catch of the day” and the place to have a couple of beers and enjoy the bay views. By catch of the day I mean what ever the local fishermen bring to their dock will be served. The Bait House will soon be known as the Bait House Tavern. I am planning to be the first customer. I love this place but more than that I love these people.

The partners are Justin and Christian. Long time friends that found a chance to share the vision of creating a place that was a throw back to old Clearwater Beach before the high rise condos and slick operators moved in. The rest of the crew includes 70+ year old Big Al with a brass belt buckle the size of Mike Tyson’s that says Big Al and Jimmy, a one time studio musician that has played and toured with the likes of Willy Nelson who also has an engineering degree. There is also Sandy the Sand Hill Crane that has found that just hanging around the place is good for ongoing treats. If Jimmy isn’t supplying shrimp or pin fish from the tanks of bait from the shop, some unwary fisherman will pull up to the dock and leave their bait tank uncovered. Sandy noticing their departure is quite happy to help herself to the easily caught small fish in their bait well.

I was invited to Thanksgiving dinner by Justin’s wife Amy. Amy is the mother of three beautiful children and if space in this blog allowed I would always refer to her as “Sweet Amy”. Justin is a very lucky guy. Amy and Justin’s children are Grace 6, Sage 4, and Fisher>1. The plan was to have the blended families of both Justin and Christian on the deck for Thanksgiving dinner. I was included.

Three turkeys were prepared for our feast. One was baked.one was smoked, and one was put in the deep fryer .Sandy was most interested in the turkey in the deep fryer. With all the bubbling and stuff, I don’t think she knew it was a distant relative we were planning on having for dinner. It was a special time at a special place.

Grace made the place settings. Mine was a sea shell with the inscription “Mr. Travis”. People visiting places tend to buy some type of souvenir for a remembrance... I will never buy a souvenir or a remembrance that will mean more. My sea shell will be placed in my very special sovenier collection because it is.

ion

My Evening Walk

2009-11-26T10:31:00.000-08:00

Every evening about dusk I take my regular “evening walk”. For the most part I repeat the route of my “morning walk” but the sights and sounds are totally different. I still stop and visit along the way but these are the night people.

Leaving my dock and walking along the commercial warf I come to the small lighted booth where my friend Sharon is found. She takes phone calls and works on anyone that passes her stand putting together party boat fishing trips for the next day. They will go out with a minimum of nine but need at least 11 to break even. If they don’t make the magic number those signed up are called and the trip is cancelled. Early morning walk-ups are sometimes disappointed to show up and find no trip.

After crossing the street I head for the fishing pier. Every night “weather permitting” there is a gathering of crafters, musicians, street performers, tourists and the ever present Captain Jack Sparrow. Unlike the morning, the pier is lined with lighted craft stands “sharks” and the ever present tourists “bait”.

There is a good deal of diversity amongst the vendors present. Most are there every night. Some are only there on weekends. Many sell some form of jewelry. Woven necklaces, beaded necklaces, and the matching earring are in plentiful supply. You can get dog tags, “for you not your dog”, sea shells with your name printed on them, crystal night lights, local scenic photos, rings and bracelets made of old silverware, and magnets made out of soft drink cans.

Street performers include a 12 year old playing Christmas tunes on his clarinet, silver painted people acting like statues( what were they thinking when they decided to act like a statue?) ,and of course the star of the place Captain Jack himself.

Jack plays his roll with the high energy and gusto that even a real pirate would admire. Everyone wants a picture with the famous pirate and Jack always gracious to child and adult alike, always in character, always obliges. Jack has a hat for tips but I have never seen him suggest a donation. Every night our banter is the same “Good evening Jack” I yell. “That’s Captain Jack, Mr. Smiley”. Comes the reply It be so. It be so.

2009-11-24T11:41:00.000-08:00

Many of you have asked about what I do with my day. After a couple of weeks in the Marina I have found that I am developing a routine. My day always starts with my walk. There are a couple of stops along the way that take a little time but they are in my mind the “cream in the coffee” that help me look forward to the exercise. Lets face it a 2 mile morning walk is easy to put off.

The first stop is the Marina Coffee Shop. Large coffee two creams and one sugar. I don’t have to order anymore just ante up the buck fifteen and I m out the door headed to visit with my friend Rudy.

Rudy is a miniature Yorky that is truly the smallest dog I have ever seen. Most of the time he lives on the counter of the “Pirates Cove Convenience Store”. The store itself is about as small as Rudy but it’s the place that beer , cigarettes, ice cream bars, tooth paste, and laundry detergent can be found in the Marina Rudy’s owner has a purse size kennel for him to rest in when he gets tired of chewing his toys and greeting customers .I am certainly not his only friend because there is always a stream of fishermen and tourists that are stopping in to say hi.

Then across the street and along the Beach Walk to Pier 60 also known as the “fishing pier”. For those folks that don’t want to pay or can’t afford the $75 for the party boat it puts you 300 yards out into the Gulf for a chance to catch some fish. I walk to the end and sit to drink my coffee to watch the Pelicans and the sunrise More about Pelicans later.

I can tell you without reservation that this is the best part of the day. It is the perfect time to “center” yourself and plan the day. The rest of my morning walk tomorrow.

Pelicans

2009-11-22T08:32:00.000-08:00

There are many things to watch here in the Marina. People, boats, boat pets and most common are birds. In most cases boaters try to find ways to keep the winged pests off their boats. Being used to people they have little or no fear so just yelling and waving your arms at them from even a few feet is pointless. They view boats as potential cafeterias where an easy snack can be found Generally they travel in small marauding bands. The biggest problem is some kind of black bird and if your not around when they come calling they will poop a pound of bird droppings all over the boat. Not only is it unsightly but it is also hard on the fiberglass finish.

On the other hand there are the pelicans. I didn’t know much about pelicans before I got down here but I have developed an affection for them that surprised me. I have never seen one land on a boat. They generally restrict themselves to “public” property unless invited. If they have been walking your dock you still need to watch your step but overall they are an amiable and undemanding neighbor. Ever watchful for a hand-out but content to wait patiently in the hope that you will toss them a snack. I am not that foolish but they wait, hoping never the less.

When the party fishing boats return with their fishermen and the days catch, the fish are usually cleaned at the dock by the crew for tips. When you clean 500 fish a day you can do it licitly split and make it look easy. The pelicans are always there to greet the boats. In the water below the fish cleaning station they wait. The crew obliges them by tossing the skin of the filleted fish over the rail to grateful throng below. A scramble, some splashing a squawks and then all are looking up for the next treat. Pelicans are small fish eaters in nature so the bones of these larger offshore fish are never offered by the crew. They just couldn’t’ digest them and that would be fatale. One particularly brave bird pushes his way through the legs of the waiting fisherman like a kid try to get to the curb to see the parade. He gets an uncontested reward for his efforts

As darkness falls the crowd below tends to thin. Pelicans don’t see well in the dark so the well fed leave to go to their roosts. Those staying late will be fed but have to somehow find their way home in the dark

Ironman Championship

2009-11-20T13:21:00.000-08:00

The Foster Grant Ironman World Championships started early for me. At dawn at least 3 helicopters were hovering over the race course in anticipation of the start. Due to high waves in the Gulf the organizers had switched the swimming portion into the Bay, so the swimmers passed right by my slip. You cannot sleep with helicopters hovering over your boat at just before dawn.

I spent some time trying to understand this compulsion. The countless hours training in multiple disciplines to compete at this level. There has to be something very unique to achieve the required fitness to just finish this race I don’t want anybody to get me wrong on this. It is very easy to make fun of people or things you don’t understand. As an objective observer I just don’t get it.

The Marina gives free internet access to boaters that are paying customers. The fact is that free makes it worth what you pay. I went up the street to the Hyatt and was able to “Oh poor me” the desk clerk into giving me the codes to access their hotel internet for free. I was dressed in my normal attire of T shirt and cargos so the only place not to look completely out of place was at the bar. The Hyatt charges $4 bucks a beer so I was nursing the heck out of the one I was willing to pay for so as not to look like a total freeloader. $4 bucks and no glass I guess even the Hyatt is suffering, so I had to drink it out of the bottle. While sitting there I met Chris and his girl friend or wife who hailed from Switzerland. My question to him was “why“. His answer was thoughtful and personal. Like many of the other competitors he had something to prove to himself and that was that he could “do it“. The other reason was “It’s fun” He also said he could eat all and anything he wanted The fact is I never had a problem with that either.

To compete requires a very significant investment of both time and money. Chris’s bike alone cost him 6 Grand, the shoes and clothing another thousand. This guy is just a casual competitor. I can only imagine what the really serious guys put down to play. There is no money in Ironman-ing, so no glory and very little money even for the very top pro’s. I still don’t get it.

The most interesting competitors are the ones that finish last. These folks are in pain and significant suffering and yet they somehow need to persevere. Walking or limping they just want to finish. Let me tell you these are the people that the crowd is 100% behind. Me too

IronMan the pre race

2009-11-19T03:34:00.000-08:00

Ironman the pre race

Well the Foster Grant Ironman World Championships are coming to Clearwater. My walk routine has been changed due to the blocking off of the parking lot I cross to get to the beach. It is now filled with bike racks were the Ironaletes will grab there rides after a 1 ½ mile swim. So I now have to walk through the “vendor” tent area.

The place has a very distinct foreign flavor to it. Most of the conversations are held in some Euro oddball language you generally never hear. German of course but Dutch, Swedish maybe Finish who knows? Fashion says Europe as well. Over the top prints on everything.

The crowd is like diamond hard hard bodies. If there is an ounce of body fat on these guys and gals I would be shocked. These people are fit. They also as a class seem to be short. I guess their little legs must work harder so they have greater endurance. Go figure?

If you wanted to buy a $10,000 bike this would be the place for comparison shopping. At least four different companies, none that I have ever heard of , all European of course, are hawking their attributes to Ironaletes and the Ironalete wanabees. K-Swiss was doing a great business selling running shoes. Some granola company was giving small samples of their $12 a bag (also small) running enhancing formula.

The Ironman people had their own tent for event related paraphernalia. You can buy Ironman T shirts, cups, key chains hats and stuff like that. I guess it helps make a memory for the kids.

I liked the Ford setup the best. A young, pretty, fit, very attractive spokes modelish woman started taking to me. Fortunately these are all qualities that I admire so I didn’t hesitate to start up a conversation. “Are you here for the race”? she asked. “No I live across the street”.” You know nobody here speaks English”.

Finally there was a guy selling something that looked like a bathroom scale that he claimed was a great tool for measuring body fat. Now how hard would it be for a machine like that in this crowd to work. All it would have to do is just flash 0 every time. Well it was free so I had a go. The answer was in German and I think it said “get off you sausage”.

living at Clearwater Beach

2009-11-18T03:54:00.000-08:00

Clearwater Beach is an interesting place to live. It is a tourist destination and combines a natural beauty that draws tourists and those that profit that from them. Most of the crowd wouldn’t really see the white sands and gorgeous beaches if the sunset boat tours, the parasail operators, or the T shirt shops were not around. I actually love being here. The activity, the interesting people, the real and the unreal seem to blend in a way that is truly an American experience. I am sure by the time I am ready to leave I will have tired of the the carnival nature of this life. We visit we are amazed by the side shows and then glad to see them move on.

The evening cruise of the “Pirates Ransom” has just past my slip. The boat is a replica 18th century galleon with diesel engines and a very loud speaker system for the onboard DJ to blast out your favorite tunes during the evening cruise. Unlike the cruises during the day when school bus loads of kid have an “authentic” pirate ship experience the evening cruises are not for children. No Sponge Bob on the night voyage. They leave around 6pm and return around 9pm. Your typical 3 hour tour. In this case Gilligan usually needs to be helped off the boat and requires either a designated driver or a cab to get home. This is my reality.

2009-11-18T03:50:00.000-08:00

Into Clearwater

2009-11-17T04:28:00.000-08:00

Well I arrived in Clearwater after a 14 hr. sail. When I left I had intended to cover the 50 mile trip in two days. The weather was perfect and the Gulf was calm. When sailing in the shallow water of northwest Florida waves do not build as they do in deeper water so I planned to anchor about 4 hours out in 12 feet and get up early to finish the trip and arrive in Clearwater at 9:00 am. Well the day was so nice and the boat was traveling so fast that I overshot my anchorage. Well you don't back up in the wind so I and my two sailing companions figured we could anchor anyway in the 20 feet of water under us. Well instead of dieing wind they continued to build.After 2hrs of the boat rocking and rolling vigorously. With everything not fully secured and the crashing of various things onto the floor including drawers full of kitchen utensils we decided to move on. I know know how to raise an anchor in 8 foot seas while holding on with a vice like grip.( note to self: "Don't do this again").

We finally anchored in the shelter of the harbor in Clearwater at 3am and proceeded to sleep more soundly that I have in years. I am in slip 130T of the Clearwater Municipal Marina for the month of November. From here for the month short day sails and new equipment shake down

The Karol Anne in the Clearwater Marina

2009-11-16T05:34:00.000-08:00

2009-11-15T15:02:00.001-08:00

Halloween in Hernando Beach 2009

The Beach bar is no where near the beach in Hernando Beach. Florida. The establishment is a relic of past glories. It’s less than numerous patrons drift in and out during the evening. Some are retired, some are fishermen but all are looking for a place to see a friendly face, smoke a cigarette, and have a beer. The retired guys will have a couple of cheap beers before moving on down the road to the ‘gentleman’s” club down the road where the beers are not cheap but the entertainment is better.

All are locals and when I entered looking for a place to watch the Phillies World Series game clearly all 5 patrons sitting at the bar knew that I was not a regular. I felt a like the new kid on his first day of school.

Little did I know that the Halloween festivities at the Beach Bar included Elvis “in the person of “Joe Elvis” whose name is Joe but added the Elvis to draw the crowds. Joe never met the King but was planning to see him on the concert tour that was to occur before he died. He had been doing Elvis tributes since he was 12 and now between his painting gigs it was a cash producing hobby.

Being Halloween costumes were in order. The bartender “Erin” as the master of ceremonies was dressed as Felix the Cat. At the end of the bar a woman and her husband clearly in their 70s. The husband’s costume consisted of a T shirt stating “I am retired so don’t ask me to do a dammed thing”. His wife was dressed as a witch but hopping off the bar stool required the assistance of a cane for the walk to the bathroom. At the other end of the bar the patrons were dressed as tired fishermen home from a hard day of shrimping.

As Joe “Elvis” started his set the entire audience consisted of the witch, her husband, myself, an already inebriated 40+ year old woman and three fisherman who had spent the day hauling in nets of shrimp and where only interested in finishing their day with a beer buzz.

The 40+ woman started the evening by shouting across the 10 foot width of the bar for Joe to sing “In the Ghetto”. When he acknowledges her request, she shouted again that it was her favorite because that’s where she came from. She then proceeded to begin flicking her cigarette lighter and dancing like an R. Crumb “keep on trucking” cartoon character

To say that it was an entertaining if bizarre evening would be an understatement. Joe didn’t sound much like Elvis but he sure made an effort for the crowd of all 6 of us. He might not have had the voice down but he sure gave it his all with the 50s Elvis gyrations.

Did I have a good time? Absolutely!! For the price of a couple of beers I had a memorable entertainment experience I will long remember

First blog post

2009-02-19T10:49:00.000-08:00

the end